Lhasa, Tertrom & a whole lot of cake (Ultimate elevation 13,000+FT)
October 24, 2010, 4:22 pm
Filed under: Uncategorized

With a few weeks dedicated to simply romping around Lhasa I ended up concentrating on 2 things: enjoying old friends and allowing them to feed me absurdly large quantities of food cause the trek left me looking like an offspring of Skeletor.

My first, much-anticipated reunion was with Tsetru–my best Tibetan girlfriend. We’ve known each other since I made my first trip to Lhasa at age 20 and was then fully adopted as a family member during the subsequent years living there. Though her children are now taller than me, she hasn’t changed a bit.

Here she is at work; she has a stall where she sells beads and trinkets:

Tsetru is originally from an area of eastern Tibet where most women follow the traditional fashion of weaving a few pounds of turquoise and coral through their hair. An upcoming post will go a little further into exactly what she wears and how she wears it.

Not long after arriving into town I turned a year further into 30-something. Tsetru, her husband and a small group of friends took me to Tertrom, my favorite spot outside the city, for the occasion. Tertrom is a sacred hot spring, nunnery, meditation retreat of Guru Rinpoche and Yeshe Tsogyal, and one of the more wonderful places in central Tibet. The combination of altitude and hours of soaking among nuns and pilgrims in boiling hot holy water makes for something special.

The view of Tertrom’s temple buildings and nun residences with the spring hidden below:

The trip was perfect– 2 and a half days spent soaking (sorry, the springs are nudey so no photos) and exploring the canyon’s sacred spots.

Tsetru picked some very tasty garlic greens for use in our birthday dinner:

On the night of my birthday, we were joined by another friend from Lhasa who carried in a blackcurrant-flavored cheesecake complete with musical electronic birthday candles (that wouldn’t stop singing so we were forced to smash them) and a feast of duck and veggies to accompany our home-cooked meal of yak meat stew. (After all, my Lhasa visit sub-theme was eating). We finished the party with a long, late-night soak in the springs where we floated around staring up at the stars.

Here is the birthday party on the way back to Lhasa. This field of mustard flowers beckoned:

Little did I know that I had another party waiting in town. My friend Ming had a day of festivities planned that included another cake, a bohemian Chinese folk band to sing “happy birthday”, and the only really good bottle of champagne in town.  Spoiled rotten I was.

Appreciate the borrowed “Jiang Zemin” glasses below. Very in at the moment:

Current location: Riding camels in Rajasthan.

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1 Comment so far
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Finally some pics of you! Loving it…

Comment by veronique




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